Tuesday, December 30, 2008
What do you want for Christmas? -a tow rope.
What sucked is that I had left my big winter jacket in my car because it is too cumbersome and too hot to wear in the supermarket, and I could not open my car with my remote. So I was freezing my butt. I tried to use my manual key, but for a reason that is too long to explain here, I had to pour hot tea on the keyhole the day before, which then froze, so there was no way I could open my car. So I went back to Auchan to get de-icer, which allowed me to open my door. But that was only half the work, because my alarm prevented me from starting the car. A nice couple helped me by towing me with my towing rope, out of the covered parking lot to a safe radio-wave free zone where I could start my car. Whoever you are, nice people, thanks to both of you for helping me out tonight.
So in the end, that was a good reminder that this place is always full of surprises. Lesson learned? don't stop the engine when you go shopping...
Thursday, December 18, 2008
The great country of soups
1- the Logman
I like the name of that one, which sounds like a soup made for real men from the logging industry. It is not a genuine russian soup though, I think it may be kazak but I am too lazy to Google if it's real true. It is a mix of meat, potatoes, pasta, carrots and water. It is hard to eat it without staining one's shirt, because the pasta drips all the time on the way from the plate to the mouth. That's why I recommend to eat it with a brown, orange and yellow shirt.
2-The solianka
I like that one very much too, because it is a chunky one. It is tomato based, with plenty of meat and a nice layer of oily fat on top, and water. That one keeps you warm. They also put olives, a slice of lemon, and a spoonful of cream. A little bit like a warm bloody mary, with more meat and with the vodka on the side...
3- The borsch
You probably heard of that one. I think it is Ukrainian. It is a beetroot soup, with chunks of meat and water. They usually add a spoonful of cream on that one too, just to make sure you get your load of calories.
3- The unknown soup in a bread bowl
I don't know the name of that last one: it contains cabbage, other veggies, dill (the favorite herb in Russia), and water. It comes in a bread bowl a bit like the clam chowder that I got in San Francisco, except this one is not sourdough. You don't have to eat the whole bread, because that is a lot of food... and the soup is only the appetizer, so leave some room for the beef tongue that's coming.
I wish you all a happy holiday. Stay warm. Eat more soup.
Sunday, December 14, 2008
Monday, December 1, 2008
dT/dt very steep
And more generally, in the morning I will get an early notice when my fly is inadvertently left open before I arrive to the office.
Sunday, November 23, 2008
It is the same mistake...
And I also decided that buying the required gear must be the most difficult part in starting this new activity. So I went and spent my money on a pair of skis which look very much like the skis I bought last year for conventional skiing, but twice as expensive, and a new pair of shoes. This is not the first time I spend my money for expensive gear, thinking that the technical know-how will come naturally... and then realizing that either I don't have the skill, or that I don't like the activity. Had I paused for a minute to reflect, this is what I could have recollected from my history:
-at the age of 9, I was designated goal-keeper by my classmates for the recess soccer games (Designating someone as a goal keeper is a diplomatic way of conveying that you are really bad on the field and that one more demotion sends you playing with the girls). The first thing I did was buying a pair of goal-keeper gloves, convinced that with those, I'd be the next "Joel Bats". Next thing I know I was playing "Dungeons and dragons" with the other nerds of my school.
-later in life, I picked up tennis. I had very promising skills, and clearly, my progression was only limited by the low quality of my gear. So I bought a new racket (brand "Lacoste")... Later, I quit tennis after a long 5-year "plateau", with the highest reward being the finalist in the double mixed tournament of Miribel.
Other examples of impulsive purchases of sport items include my clothes for triathlon (I never ran a triathlon), a high-end heart-rate monitor loaded with cool features which I never used, the expensive clip pedals for my bicycle which I must have used 5 times in total, my russian sports car...
End of the story: the new skis specially made for skating don't make skating easy. I can't really say yet I like the sport... any activity where I fall in public more than 2 times within 30 minutes is not likely to be my favorite activity. And I can't get that duck-like step right. Maybe it's because I don't have those lycra stretchy pants that look really cool and don't impair the leg movement?
Saturday, November 22, 2008
Siberian Exiles
http://metkere.com/en/2008/11/siberian-exiles.html
Saturday, November 15, 2008
Lost in the dark
It was nearly dark when I saw a very debatable indication for the 10 vs 15K track... I reflected for a minute before choosing left or right, knowing that a wrong decision would cost me a finger or a toe (did I mention I overestimated the temperature when I left, so I did not wear clothes warm enough?). I took a left, which turned out to be the right decision and kept on pushing, and at that stage I did no longer enjoy the friction of my damn socks against my heels. It is not such a good feeling to be alone out there in the dark, not knowing if I was on the right trail, with no friend or wife to blame for the bad situation.
In the end, I made it safely back to civilization, with little damage other than some more erosion of my confidence in leadership skills, and of the skin at the back of my heels.
Note: the supporting pictures I took with my phone for this story got corrupted... blame Motorola for it.
Saturday, November 8, 2008
Food food food (#1)
With absence of interesting facts to report, I decided to start talking about the food that we can find in Siberia. This first article is about the food I had in Buryatie, in central Siberia. The pictures below should wake up your appetite, so grab something in your fridge before going further.
Below, you can see a typical meal that you can have in many restaurant in Buryatie.
On the left, a fish salad: yes, this is Omoul... served raw with onion, green onion, and a bit of seasoning. This is appropriately called "Omoul salad".
On the right, you can see "posies": these are giant raviolis filled with meat and onion, and greasy juice... Mmmmh. Note the absence of silverware: you are supposed to eat that thing with your fingers following a well-defined technique: first have a small bite and suck out the greasy juice (watch your shirt). Then just eat the rest and lick your fingers, and say "Vkusna!" (that means "delicious", and saying it will keep you out of trouble).
Then comes dessert: The traditional dessert all over Russia is a "blin", and when you have several of them, you use the plural form and these are "blini". It is filled with whatever you like, but last time I suggested to fill one with ice-cream, I was met with uncomprehension, so just ask for honey to avoid any embarassment. Also, don't even try to have blini without tea, or people will look at you like you have ink on your nose. On the right, this is a picture of typical "buryat" tea, which is mixed with milk, butter and salt, so don't order it if you are lactose intolerant (I don't recommend lactose intolerant people to come to Siberia overall, as they put cream absolutely everywhere). You can try this buryat tea at home and tell me what you think. I don't like tea in the first place, and the dairy products they mixed it with did not make it better.
Good appetite. More siberian food is coming your way in the next weeks.
Monday, October 20, 2008
I am not a leper
I shall come back with more interesting story next time. Maybe about a medical test for bubonic plague or scurvy. Russian authorities would help me making better plots with more suspense if they actually tested diseases that are still around in the 21st century.
Saturday, October 11, 2008
Happy first year anniversary!
It has been refreshing to live in a place with seasons, it is really like different worlds between the summer and the winter. I like the summer better, but I did not realize that before moving here, so I can’t really complain. The winter is also fun, as long as you don’t mind runny nose, cold fingers and wearing 4 layers of clothes….and the winter in May is really at the edge of what my sense of fun can support.
One thing I don’t talk about too much in my blog is the people I have met here, and whom I hang around with. In my blog, it seems like all Siberia is centered around me (which is almost true geographically speaking). But in reality, I have met really amazing people and I have very good friends here. I won’t name them just because they all begged me never to mention their name in my blog (that might endanger their future political career, who knows?), but they exist, and they’re real humans, not just bunnies like before. Still, my good ol’ friends are what I miss the most, and there is plenty of evenings that I would rather be spending on a good ol’ food fight rather than staring at the buildings from the Soviet times. But I don’t regret being here, and sometimes I feel there is nowhere else I’d rather be than here, where I have time to contemplate and procrastinate while eating cheese.
I can’t really mix very well with the locals yet, though… only with those who use regular verbs at the present time, who articulate very well and don’t mind repeating things twice. You probably understand it reduces my potential circle of acquaintance to a very small population… But I work on my Russian skills. One day, I will speak perfect Russian, and then everything will be easier: I’ll be able to order my steak medium rare on one side and rare on the other, and complain when the salad is served after the soup.
My secret to live here happily? Develop a taste for cabbage and take things lightly. The inefficiencies of the system are just there to make things more fun. It would be so boring to live in a place that does not require a stamped printout of a e-ticket to travel, that does not ask to register by the authorities when being in a city for 3 days, that provides hot water every day, that provides electricity without cutoff, or where you don’t have to register your car at the army. That’s how I look at it.
Thanks for reading my blog and for keeping up with me for the coming year… As for US presidents, the second term might really be the f....d up one. Let's see...
Sunday, October 5, 2008
Mushrooming
I hope this proves skeptical people that I am not wasting my time here in Siberia and that I always find something constructive to do with my week-ends.
Tuesday, September 30, 2008
A real fall
"In Akademgorodok, there is a season called Indian summer. It lasts all September and it is warm ..." That is true, given that this statement was given to me by -20C in December. But coming from summer, it is cold.
"In Akademgorodok, in the fall, the sky is always blue." That's true only if we assume that the fall started and ended last Saturday. Otherwise it is gray, dark, windy and rainy.
"In Akademgorodok, the trees are wonderful in the fall". That's right. And i am embedding a few pictures to prove it. But with the wind and the rain, it does not last for very long.
"After one year in Russia, you will speak Russian very good". No comment.
Wednesday, September 17, 2008
The first snow!!
I guess that marks the end of the hurricane season here. My friends from Houston, I am thinking about you and I hope Ike did not affect you too much. Cheers...
Sunday, September 14, 2008
A cool place to chill out
Thursday, September 11, 2008
A Sunday at the datcha.
By the way, i do not recommend to try the berries that almost look like blackberries on the picture. It doesn't taste like much first, but then it leaves a sour taste for very long in the mouth. I should have listened to my friends when they told me these berries were not edible... but they looked so good and juicy. You guys don't realize how lucky you are to have a friend who is nice enough to try all these disgusting things and share his experience with you.
Sunday, August 31, 2008
Fallready
Just when I started to get used to the summer... what do I see? Leaves that turn yellowish, signature of the fall season to start. This was a short summer. If only I had known, I would have spent more time outside rather than on my computer pretending I am writing something informative while I am only procrastinating.
Bye bye summer... Thanks for passing by. Just give me a ring next time so I make sure I don't miss you. Here's a short salute to the new season:
Ferns are getting brown,
Mama deer has abandoned her fawn
Squirrels are busy getting the last nuts off the ground
Fall has arrived and I am feeling down...yawn.
-B. L.
Sunday, August 24, 2008
Always too soon for tarasoon
Tarasoon is a drink that may look harmless when presented in a small innocent glass... and since it is a buryat specialty you have to go to a yurta to go drink it, and the whole thing is almost attractive and you would be tempted to try. Even when the locals tell you that it is made from milk of a mare, that has been curdled and then distilled, you may still think "Well, why not? Curdled mare milk might just be a source of nutrients that has been mistakenly overlooked in the western world..."
Mares can sleep quietly out of Buryatie. Tarasoon will never be popular. Proof? Type "tarasoon" in google and nothing will come up. Only under "tarasun", it comes listed in the 3rd page. And what does it say? Here you go:
"Prayers are offered and sacrifices made to all the Heavenly Burkans [...]. People [..]ask the spirits, especially Sagadé U!gu!gun, for rain, good crops, and children. When they ask the gods for children they offer Sagadé U!gu!gun twenty pots of tarasun [...]"
(from http://www.sacred-texts.com/asia/jss/jss14.htm)
See? Even the buryats don't drink it! They give Sagade U!Gu!Gun 20 pots of it! And I can tell you that Sagade U!Gu!Gun must be sorry. I am sure he regrets not having applied as God in other places such as Scotland or France. I tried Tarasoon... from the glass you see on the picture, I drank about 1/10th. From the face I made after drinking it, I kept wrinkles that will never disappear. Describing the taste while remaining polite is a challenge, so I will just say that it tastes like someone already drank it before. I guess it tastes like distilled curdled mare milk is supposed to taste like.
May this blog serve as warning to all tourists who feel adventurous enough to try Tarasoon. Let Sagade U!Gu!Gun have it, and have a Stella instead.
Wednesday, August 20, 2008
Tough time for Niva
Well, anyway, I figured that, since my car breaks down so often, I should enjoy it to its full potential in the short periods when it is good shape... So I went out with my friends Tim, Cedric, and Mandy, all of them enthusiastic owners of Niva, and we kicked around some mud. My Niva definitely showed better performance than theirs, mainly because of the new roof rack that I installed and which looks pretty damn cool.
Below, a failed attempt at going up a muddy hill. I wish the movie showed better how steep that was... It was so steep, and I was going so fast, that when I finally passed the hill (not shown, for some reasons) I literally experienced zero gravity for a few seconds. That's how bad that was.
Saturday, August 16, 2008
Si c'est si bien, Baikal les voir!
During the 4 days we spent there, our HQ was located on Olkhone island, where we (we=my parents and me) had all the comfort we needed: a room for three, a bania at 2km for our daily session of sweating and exfoliating, and ecological restrooms across the potato field. We lived like kings. Food mainly consisted of omoul, the infamous fish from the lake: so we had raw omoul salads, steamed omoul, grilled omoul, smoked omoul, dry omoul, fried omoul with potatoes and finally, omoul soup. When omouls are not on a table or in someone's stomach, they roam freely in the lake where they serve as food for the "nerpa", the freshwater seal from the lake Baikal. Nerpas have it easier than the omouls: There is no dish based on nerpa, whose goal in life is mainly to serve as an attraction for tourists like me who cross half the lake to see him behaving like a regular seal, except that it's a big deal because it is the only seal leaving in fresh water.
Well, I have tried to be very down to earth with my post, but I need to be honest... I still have very vivid images of the lake in my mind, because it is such a wonderful place. Here is a small movie that should convey better how great it is there... (I recommend to pump up the volume)
By the way, if you want to go there, I recommend you to contact the agency "Baikal Nature". They are cool, young, knowledgeable and flexible...and they also speak French...what else can you ask?
Thursday, August 7, 2008
The woolly mammoths of Akademgorodok
2 specimens of Mammoth primigenius are exposed in the hallway of the institute, and displayed free of charge for the people who enjoy a bit of culture over a double fat free latte. I believe they are woolly mammoths, but the wool has long gone off the skelettons of these guys, so it is hard to tell. So is the trump, which probably drifted away from the mammoth's nose along with the melting glacier at the end of the ice age (that is pure speculation from my part, don't quote this as a scientific fact).
Note the extra effort by the zealous staff to make them look more realistic by placing plastic dinosaurs and alligators at the feet of the giant beast.
Sunday, August 3, 2008
The eclipse
Unless your only source of information about Novosibirsk is this present blog, you should have known that a total solar eclipse was planned in Novosibirsk on August 1st 2008. A good occasion to go for another boat tour on the Ob and watch the eclipse from a place with no risk of anything hiding our sight.
I thought I had been in a total eclipse before (1999, France). Either I was not at the right location, or maybe eclipses in the western world are not that impressive, but in the end, my expectations were not that high. I was expecting something like that:
What you are looking at is a picture taken proactively prior to the real eclipse. It is my right-hand side finger, the tip of which happens to coincide with the diameter of the sun. I thought this was similar to what I was going to experience, so you'll understand that I joined the boat expedition more for the shahsliks and the beer than the astronomical experience.
Well, what we saw was much more impressive (if you don't believe me, ask the other 10,000 tourists flocking to Novosibirsk for the occasion):
That's what we saw... but the eclipse is in fact much more than the Moon going in front of the Sun: until the sun is 100% covered, the light is pretty much normal. But then, at once, it is like someone switches off the light and you can see the stars. And everything goes dark:
On the left, this is minutes before the eclipse (no photoshop). On the right, this is during the 2 minutes of the full eclipse (no photoshop).
In the end, this turned out to be a magnificent experience, almost spiritual... And I also had beer and shashlik on the boat so I really had a great day.
Monday, July 21, 2008
On Loooove boaaaat… Na na na na na na na na na
I am posting a few pictures of the trip below. You will see the sunset by the longest bridge of Siberia (still, just long enough to connect both ends of the river), some guys fishing, a nice picture of a power plant shining in the sunlight... All that within a 60 minute boat ride.
Wednesday, July 16, 2008
Scenes of the Volga
Enjoy the beautiful beach, only minutes from the highway.
Relax or challenge yourself with all sorts of activities, also minutes only from the highway.
Discover the local fauna (minutes from the highway).
Finally, the town center and its highlights.
Now, being serious for a second: I had a splendid week-end there. The long evenings on the banks, with seagulls warming their butts on the lamps, and the charms of the city made it really nice. I am ready to go back there in a second.
Sunday, July 6, 2008
A peaceful Saturday eve
So for my second day back in the city, I decided to spend the evening in Novosibirsk on Saturday, just wandering around in the parks and enjoying the calm and relaxing atmosphere of a late summer evening. So I went and I walked around Lenine's square, in the very same parks where they have the snow sculptures during the winter, and watched for random things. This was a pleasant moment, as the temperature is very nice and people enjoy being outside and socializing in the parks. (Myself, I am not really socializing much yet, as my conversation is very limited, but I tried to be in harmony with the overall atmosphere by walking slowly and smiling. I hope the locals appreciate the effort.). The pictures below are random shots around Lenine square: the parks, the opera, the three lads and some more bear pictures.
And finally, this little show from our local Central Park, right in the heart of the city. Far from Manhattan, but the similarities are striking, aren't they?
Sunday, June 22, 2008
Congrats to Russia!
But: what's left that we can beat the Russians at? Mmmmh... not much as long as there are no contests of safe driving and even stairs building.
Sunday, June 15, 2008
A nice week-end in Tomsk
In a sudden change of mind, I decided to spend the week end in Tomsk with friends. Tomsk is a city located at about 250km North of Novosibirsk. If you happened to like Jules Verne, then the name of Tomsk should have rung a bell to you. This is the city where Jules had the bad guys (the Tatars) burning the eyes of Michel Strogoff, who was being accused of being a Russian spy (a Russian spy... how original. come on, Tatars, you can be more creative than that. And, don't you think Michel is a terrible first name for a Russian spy?) Anyway, I don’t mean to ruin the story if you haven’t read it, but it turns out that the Tatars did not burn the eyes of Michel well enough, and Michel Strogoff recovers his sight a few pages later. This being said, I don’t know if Michel had time to have a peek at the city before being caught: it is a very beautiful city actually. Lots of students, lots of historical buildings and museums, and a beautiful university campus. Have a look at the pictures I posted… Also, the monument in the honor of the soldiers who fell during WW2 is impressive and commands respect. The whole city clashes with the idea that I had so far about Siberian cities and their massive square buildings. And I did not see any sign of the lake used for storing nuclear waste near the city, which is mentioned in my guidebook. Probably some ecologist propaganda again…
So what did we do in Tomsk? We walked all day, stopped for coffees here and there, enjoyed the nice weather, and then we switched to beer at around 8pm, and went to a Tomskian club. Can't do that in any city, can you?
Sunday, June 8, 2008
Spring is here for good
Spring has settled for good now in Novosibirsk: here some pictures of the countryside around Akademgorodok where we are going for bikeride every week end, and a few pictures in Akademgorodok. I don’t recommend you watch these pictures at work if you are in an open space environment, as your Ooohs! and Aaahs! may attract the attention of your coworkers. Enjoy. I will be posting pictures of winter very soon again.
Sunday, June 1, 2008
Sign of summer
The barrel of KBAC comes with a baboushka, a past middle aged lady who serves the drink and makes faces when you don't have change. Baboushkas have signed an exclusivity contract with the authorities to serve KBAC. Or so it seems...(or maybe drinking lots of KBAC makes aging faster?)
A 0.4 liter glass of KBAC is about 15 roubles ($0.60), which is a fair price for wet bread.